James Clarke: How a non-musician makes harmony

Hook Norton Brewery MD James Clarke admits he can’t carry a tune, but discovers a different kind of symphony in these musings on recent beer and food pairings.

James enjoying leg of Lamb…and a beer.

I was never any good at music in school, and I still cannot read a note. I remember music exams with dread; practising Silent Night on a glockenspiel was the best I could manage. But that hasn’t stopped me from enjoying music.

But what of the “symphony” of beer? Some twenty-odd years ago, we embarked on a programme of beer and food events, (see images from our 2005 brewery calendar below).  While most were well-received and supported by industry initiatives, the concept didn’t really gain traction. There were doubters who decreed that only wine paired with food, so the idea sort of slipped away.

However, following a recent wine and food dinner, our enthusiasm was rekindled—not least because when I offered everyone a cleansing ale at the end of the evening, they all partook.

The Chequers at Churchill

Recently, we held a small but select dinner at The Chequers in Churchill. Each course was paired with a beer, but we kept the presentation minimal—simply introducing the beer and the food, and letting the guests form their own opinions. Cheese soufflé with Hooky Gold? Yes, please; it was a gentle introduction and a perfect match. This was followed by lamb, cheese, and chocolate paired with Flagship, Double Stout, and Old Hooky (though not in that order—I will leave you to guess the combinations). It was a great evening full of chat and laughter, and a reminder that while a pub experience benefits from good beer, the environment, company, and service play equally important parts.

The Rising Sun in Ickford also held a game dinner last weekend. Pigeon, venison, trout, and rabbit were all superbly prepared and presented, but I have to say the rabbit ravioli was divine. Having grown up dreading rabbit casserole—spending most of the time sifting out bones—this was a revelation. The local venison biltong was also the best I have ever tasted.

Next year, we are planning similar events here at the brewery. Can beer be paired with food? Absolutely. Take the flavours as you find them, don’t overthink it, and enjoy the sociability that comes with it.

So, I can’t read a note, but I reckon I can pair a beer with a suitable food course. Try it and see how good it can be. Harmony in motion.